Granny Square baby blanket

I have made three of these Granny Square blankets, and enjoy doing the simple pattern. The directions (below) seem daunting until you are a few rounds in, and then you just go round and round and round until the blanket is done. I copied and pasted these directions off something way back when, but can't remember where it originated. The Granny Square is a pretty basic crochet design, though.

Ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, ch 1, (3 dc in ring, ch 1) 3 times; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 12 dc and 4 ch-1 sps.
Rnd 2: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp (first corner made), *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp (corner made); rep from * 2 more times; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 3: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, *3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 2 more times, 3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 4: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, *(3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) twice, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 2 more times, (3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) twice; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 5: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, *(3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) across to next ch-1 sp, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 2 more times, (3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) around; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rep Rnd 5 until piece measures desired size. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Crocheted Hats

I've been having fun crocheting hats recently. It is a good use of scraps, and I can sit down and make one in under and hour. It is a fun way to snuggle up with kids and cartoons without having to just watch cartoons.

I made one for Beatrix using extra yarn from her lovey blankie, and she has been wearing it everywhere.

I tried a few different patterns, but my favorite was a pattern called "Bev's Easy Round Baby Hat." Here is the link to her site. She recommends hook F for preemie, G or H for newborn.

Top of hat
Ch 2
Rnd 1: Make 15 dc into the 2nd ch from the hook, join with sl st into top of first dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), dc into same st, *dc, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around, including in the very first stitch base, and join with sl st in the top of the first stitch. (23 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc into next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around and join with sl st. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc into next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around and join with sl st. (37 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2. Dc in each st and join with sl st. Rnd 6-9: Repeat rnd 5.
Final Round for Brim: Ch 2, dc into front post of the dc below, then dc into back post of the next dc below. Keep alternatiion fp and bp around. Join.

I made the one for Beatrix by adapting the pattern a little bit to make it more toddler sized. I used an H hook. I followed round 1. Did round 2 three times. Then did 11 rounds of double crochet. Then I added little loops by ch 4, skip a stitch and sc into next, repeating all the way around.

Tag Blankie Tutorial

Jill made Abigail a tag blanket when she was little (the one in the 2nd picture,) and she loved it and loved it! As a baby she liked to flick-flick-flick the little tags, or get her fingers in the loops, or just suck on them. As she grew up they because nice place mats for tea parties, great doll blankets, and the occasional frisbee. (I think maybe I should subtitle this blog "Things Jill made for my kids that I copy now.")

Now the tag blankie is one of my go to baby gifts. They are simple to make, and I can whip out a set of 4 or 6 in an afternoon. I usually make them assembly line style, repeating each step for however many I am making. For this picture tutorial, though, I just did one.

Materials:

Soft fabric like fleece or minkee. I used to always use fleece on both sides. But then I discovered the super soft minkee fabric, and I like to use that on one side. I wouldn't use two sides with minkee, though, because I think it wouldn't have enough form.

Ribbon. You can start with as few as 5 different ribbons, but the more the better. There is almost always a bin of $1 ribbons outside craft stores. I have grabbed one here and one there, and before I knew it I had a giant bin full. Most of the mine are 5/8" width, but a variety of sizes makes the blankies more fun.

Step 1: Cut fabric into 9" squares. (You could go bigger or smaller depending on your fabric. This piece of minkee was 18" so I just went with 9".) You'll need two pieces of fabric per blanket.

Step 2: Cut an assortment of ribbon into 4" strips. You'll need 20 per blanket.

Step 3: Choose the 20 ribbons you want for your blanket. (I used 2 sets of 10 different ribbons.) Set them out in the order you intend to place them onto the blanket.
Step 4: Take one piece of fleece, right side up, and space the ribbons out evenly, right side down.
Step 5: Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew down the edge of the fleece, attaching the ribbons. Just before you get to each ribbon, flip it into a loop, and hold it as you stitch. The raw edges of the ribbon will touch the raw edge of the fleece.
Do this on all four sides and you will get the following.
Step 6: Place your second piece of fabric right side down on top of the ribboned fabric. (If I'm using two pieces of fleece I usually don't pin, since they stick together pretty well. But with minkee I do pin, because it is slippery stuff.) Sew around the outside, using a 1/2" seam allowance (you can sew right on top of the seam holding down the ribbons for a guide.) Leave a 2-3" opening for turning.

Flip it right side out, and you should have the following. Notice the opening at the bottom.
Step 7: Lay the opening spot flat and pin.
Step 8: Top stitch as closely as you can around the edges. This will finish it off, and close the opening without any hand stitching!
All done!

Directions without pictures:

Materials:
2-9" squares of fleece or 1 fleece and one minkee
20-4" pieces of various ribbon

Step 1: Cut fabric into 9" squares.

Step 2: Cut an assortment of ribbon into 4" strips. You'll need 20 per blanket.

Step 3: Set the ribbons out in the order you intend to place them onto the blanket.

Step 4: Take one piece of fleece, right side up, and space the ribbons out evenly, right side down.

Step 5: Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew down the edge of the fleece, attaching the ribbons. Just before you get to each ribbon, flip it into a loop, and hold it as you stitch. The raw edges of the ribbon will touch the raw edge of the fleece.

Step 6: Place your second piece of fabric right side down on top of the ribboned fabric. Sew around the outside, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Leave a 2-3" opening for turning.

Step 7: Lay the opening spot flat and pin.

Step 8: Top stitch as closely as you can around the edges.

V Stitch baby blanket

This was the first time I have used a V Stitch to make a blanket, and really liked it.  The blanket came together so quickly, and except for the first row, you don't have to pay much attention to what you are doing at all.  I found this pattern on the Lion Brand Website.  The yarn was Lion Brand Vanna's Choice, which was baby soft, but still pretty chunky, and I needed 4 skeins.  I used a K hook.

DIRECTIONS: Ch 85. Row 1: (Dc, ch 1, dc) in 5th ch from hook (V-st made), *sk next 2 ch, V-st in next ch; rep from * across to last 2 ch, sk next ch, dc in last ch – 27 V-sts at end of this row. Rows 2-40: Ch 3, turn, V-st in each ch-1 sp across, dc in top of turning ch.         (Honestly, I didn't count the rows, but just went until it looked big enough to me.) Border: Single crochet at even intervals around all four sides.  (Original directions called for a picot border, but I don't like making them or how they look.)

Ruffle scarf

I made a few variations of this scarf in the last few months.  The pattern came from the Lionbrand Yarn website.  I used their Homespun Yarn, which is really soft.  The downside to the fluffy yarn is that you really can't see what you are doing, at least between the chain row and row 1.  But the upside is that no one else can tell if you've made mistakes, either!  I used a J-10 hook.  Here are the directions, straight from the link above at Lionbrand Yarn.  (This is my favorite pattern site so far for crochet.)

SCARF
Ch 143.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 142 sc at the end of this row.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), turn, 2 dc in first sc, *dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc; rep from * across to last sc, dc in last sc – 214 dc at the end of this row.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first dc, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * across to last dc, dc in last dc – 322 dc at the end of this row.
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc; rep from * across – 431 dc at end of this row. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.

I just started crocheting about a year and a half ago.  I picked up Crocheting For Dummies from the library, and it really did teach me everything I needed to know, at least to get started on basic patterns.  I also grabbed the I Taught Myself Crochet Beginners Kit from the craft store, mostly because it was a good deal on the different hooks, but the book also had good reference points for all the stitches.

Burp Rags

100% of the credit for the burp rags goes to my sister Jill.  She made me a set before Abigail was born, and I admit, I had to ask what they were used for.  Fast forward 4 kids and over 8 years later, and I can tell you that the burp rags Jill made me were far and beyond the most used baby gift we received.  And now that we don't have babies spitting up anymore, we still use them all the time for hankies, doll blankets, or whatever else the kids think up. 

The burp rags in the picture are all from the original set Jill made for us.  They have held up so well!  The only one that ever stained was one that was used for an emergency coffee spill in the car.  See? I told you they were useful for many things!

1 yard of flannel will make 4 burp rags, with a finished size of approx 8.5" x 20".  (Although I often use scraps, so they turn out to be different sized rectangles sometimes.)

• Go to the store to buy flannel.  Don't blow the budget when you see all the cute fabric!
• Prewash the flannel.
• Cut into the yard of fabric into 4- 9" strips.  Trim the selvage edge off, and then cut the strips in half.
• Iron.
• Place right sides together, and sew along the outsides, with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving room to turn on one of the short sides.
• Clip the corners a little, so it will turn better.
• Flip right-side out, poking the corners a bit to lie flat.
• Iron again, making the opening lie flat, so it looks like the rest that is sewn. Pin if you feel inclined.  (This is the step I'm on in the picture below.)
• Top stitch around the outside.
• Top stitch across the middle, both the long way and the short way.

Fringed fleece baby blanket

I have recently made both rag quilts and no sew fleece blankets, but this baby blanket is sort of a combination of each.  It does take a little sewing, but not much, and can easily be done start to finish in an afternoon.  (Or over a few days during naptime when the kiddos are sleeping.)

I bought 1 yard each of 3 types of fleece.  In this case a stripe, a solid green and a solid blue.  It was enough to complete two blankets, plus I had extra of the solids.

Step One: Cut the fabric into 9" squares.  I highly recommend using a rotary mat and cutter for this step.  With them you can get it done very quickly.  Fleece comes in 60" width.  So taking your 36" x 60" fleece, you will cut the 36" side equally into 4 parts, to make 9" strips.  Then cut this every 9" into squares.  This should get you 24 squares, plus some extra at the end.

Step Two: Design the blanket layout.  As you can see in the picture I used the striped fleece in every other block, and then alternated the green and blue.
A=Stripes
B=Blue
C=Green

ABACA            With this pattern you will need 13 of A, 6 of B, and 6 of C.
CABAC
ACABA
BACAB
ABACA

A second pattern to use, which will work with the remaining squares would be:

ABCAB            With this pattern you will need 9 of A, 8 of B, and 8 of C.
CABCA
BCABC
ABCAB
CABCA

But, of course, you can make whatever pattern you like.

Step Three:  Stitch together the squares.  Use a 1/2" seam allowance.  I have mine all laid out in the floor, and then sew them in an assembly line, one right after the next, without stopping to cut the thread between each one.  When you are done all the seams will be sticking up, so it is very important to make sure you sew them the right direction.  I usually pinch each set of fabric up, as they will be sewn, to remind me which side to sew together.  (I wish I had more pictures of this, but will have to add them when I do this blanket again.)

Begin by completing each row.  (At this point I don't pin, since it is just one 9" square to the next, and fleece doesn't shift much.)  Next, sew each row to the next.  Now I pin.  Again, be sure that you have all your completed seams sticking up in the same direction.

When all the rows are done I sew around the outside edge, again with a 1/2" allowance.  This isn't really needed, since fleece won't fray, but I think it gives it a nice finished look, and a good guide for making the fringe.

Step Four: Cut! Cut! Cut!  Make sure you have a good pair of sharp scissors.  I also highly recommend Fiskars rag quilt snips.  The blades are shorter than scissors, and they are spring loaded, so they bounce back each snip.  It will save you both time and arm pain!  You will be snipping fringe on every seam.  I do them about every 1/4", or as close together as I can while still being consistent.  It gets tricky as you come to where the squares overlap, since you will be cutting several layers at once.  Just do a few layers at a time if you need to, and be careful not to cut off fringe as you go down the opposite direction.  I usually do this with a few breaks in between.  It seems the easiest part of the job, but is really tiring on your forearm.

All done! Final size should be a 40" square.